True Untouched Wilderness: My Backpacking Trip in Yosemite

What initially started as a plan, based solely off of an impulse, to experience a backpacking trip through New Zealand's breath taking mountain ranges turned into a trip to a place in my own backyard that would likely give New Zealand a run for its money. After months of planning, buying all of the necessary gear, requesting leave through my command, and even submitting paperwork for a U.S. Passport, I woke up one morning with an epiphany: "Why go through all of the trouble to see the beauty of another country when I haven't even fully experienced the beauty of my own." With this, started my contingency plan, my trip to Yosemite National Park.

Once I decided that Yosemite would be my destination I began making a few tweeks to my itinerary. I obviously no longer needed a passport so that saved me $180, or perhaps I should say that it allowed me to spend $180 on more gear. I bought a topographical map of Yosemite and mapped out a 49.2 mile route from Tuolumne Meadows, along Rafferty Creek to Yosemite Valley, and back up the John Muir Trail to our point of origin. After a few final trips to REI, I finally had everything I needed to spend five days in solitude, away from the constant flow of life and the non-stop, fast paced city that I had grown to tolerate. Although my trip wouldn't take place for another two months, I had everything I needed packed in my Osprey Aether 70 liter pack and ready to go. However, one thing was missing. I knew that experiencing something like this alone wouldn't be as rewarding than if I invited someone to keep me company. So I began considering a hiking buddy.

After giving consideration to whom I thought would truly appreciate the countryside of our beautiful nation, I decided to invite Richard and Scott, co-workers who also had a love and appreciation of hiking and the outdoors. They jumped on the opportunity and began their planning with less than a month left until we hit the road on our seven hour road trip from San Diego to Yosemite. After submitting our leave and working out the last minute kinks, we were ready. But wouldn't you know, a wildfire had sparked in Yosemite just in time for our departure.

We decided that my truck would be the best option of travel due to the space in the bed, but at 16 highway miles per gallon, I was less optimistic to say the least. With no other option, we hit the road at 8:00 a.m on the dot and arrived at a gorgeous little hotel outside the Yosemite border called The Berkshire Inn. Upon our arrival we were greeted by the owner's dog, an older but yet energetic white Lab named Buster. After moving in our bags and making all of the last necessary adjustments to our packs, it was time to relax. As the sun was just setting behind the neighboring Sierra Nevada mountain range, we decided to kick back on the raised wooden deck of the hotel, throw back a few Samuel Adam's Octoberfest brews and mentally prepare ourselves for the beating we were about to take.

The next morning, after waking to the sun peeking through the drapes of room 6, I arose and began gathering my gear. After loading everything into the truck I decided to head over to the complimentary breakfast which turned out to be mediocre at best, but what did I care? I was about to survive the next 5 days on dehydrated Mountain House meals and GORP (Good Ol' Raisins and Peanuts). After checking out we were on our last leg of the road trip to our final destination, or at least we wished it could be.

After picking up our wilderness permit from the local Tuolumne Meadows ranger station and staying our first night in a local backpackers' campground we were finally ready to hit the trail. Everything was going smooth, other than some pretty steep climbs up to Vogelsang Lake, which would be the site of our first night's camp. After boiling some water from the lake, eating our dehydrated meals and trying our luck at fishing (which yielded no catch) it was time to rest our tired legs and aching backs. As daylight began to fade and light from the sun was slowly replaced by the brightness of the stars and constellations of the night sky, we were humbled at how truly small we were. So insignificant among the millions of stars hanging over our heads like the famous New Zealand glowworms. It was beautiful.

From our campsite at Vogelsang Lake

The next morning we began our hike through Vogelsang Pass and down the steep switchbacks on to our destination to Merced Lake. However, with the wildfire still raging, we were forced to make some changes to our route near the Merced Lake ranger station. Instead of camping at Merced Lake that night, we were forced to head South to Washburn Lake, but in Yosemite everywhere you go there is nothing but beauty to be had, so we didn't care. As it turned out, Washburn Lake was even more beautiful than we had imagined. With the steep granite cliffs littered with trees towering over the lake, it made for some outstanding photos and, with the sandy beaches, an even better campsite. However, the best was yet to come.

Vogelsang Pass

Merced Lake ranger station

Washburn Lake

Twilight over Washburn Lake

Our third day began with a quick three mile hike back to the Merced Lake ranger station. We had planned to hike back up the way we came since the trails to Yosemite Valley were closed due to the wildfire; however, once we arrived back at the ranger station, much to our surprise, the pink ribbon and "trail closed" signs had been removed. We were ecstatic. After a few confused looks and some shoulder shrugging we decided to go for it. Our original itinerary was back on.  Everything was going great up until the 11th mile on the trail when we noticed the freshly burned conifers and smoldering stumps. By this point we had already traveled nearly 12 miles and we weren't about to turn back and waste a day's travel so we decided to reluctantly push on through the soft ash and char coaled wood. For the next four miles we waded through ankle deep ash and the smell burnt wood that closely resembled sticking your nose inches from a campfire. The smell consumed us. After passing dead animals that hadn't been lucky enough to outrun the grasps of the wildfire's heat and stumps that were still on fire, we finally began to see green again instead of the dreadful dull grey that surrounded us. The first signs of live for miles.

The beginning of the wildfire

First signs of life

My first stop upon our arrival at the backpackers' camp at the base of Half Dome was at the ranger station to see what in the hell had just happened. I had asked why the tape was removed at the Merced Lake trailhead if the wildfire was still burning and what our options were to get back to Tuolumne Meadows. After trading a few laughs with the semi attractive blonde haired ranger, she informed me that they had sent a ranger from Merced to see if the trail was safe to reopen to the public upon which she asked, "Well, was it safe?"

Our trip ended a day early and 10 miles short with a cab ride back up to Tuolumne since the trails that we had the privilege of being the only ones in the entire park to hike were still closed to the public. Overall, I wouldn't trade the experience for anything. Spending time at Yosemite made me realize that California isn't all "hustle and bustle" and the state does have some of the most beautiful untouched wilderness that the world has to offer. The same wilderness that existed many years ago during the Civil War and during the California Gold Rush. What began as a parcel of land teeming with Indians was eventually deemed a National Park by our very own 16th President, Abraham Lincoln. So even though we may get caught up in our daily lives and forget where we came from or we take the many things we have for granted, it is important to get out and experience what our great outdoors has to offer. You may just leave with the experience of a lifetime.

Switchbacks down into Yosemite Valley

Scott waiting on the cab